You can do a lot of minor repairs and maintenance on your boat. You can save a lot of money by doing the small jobs yourself over the course of a whole year, rather than hiring someone to do the job for you.

While some jobs can be difficult and expensive, you could still do small jobs such as repairing deck hatches or portlights with basic DIY skills and research.

Glass vs. Acrylic or Polycarbonate

Nearly all plastic portlight lenses are made from transparent acrylic (PMMA). Crylux, Plexiglas and Acrylite are all common brands. Tempered glass is another option for portlight lenses. It has a longer life span and is easier to clean. Glass is fragile so it needs to be mounted in a sturdy frame. It is not suitable for fixed portlights because even metal frames can bend to the shape of the cabin.

Plastic hatch lenses are made of see-through polycarbonate (PC), such as Makrolon and Lexan brands. Both acrylic and polycarbonate offer pros and cons. Acrylic is cheaper and more durable than polycarb, but it’s easier to crack. Polycarb is stronger against impact, but scratches easier than acrylic. Both are lighter than untempered glasses, with acrylic being between 4-8 times stronger than untempered. Polycarb is 200 times more powerful than untempered glass.

Acrylic hatch and portlight lenses are not meant to last forever. They become crazed, faded, hazy, and stop sealing over time. Not only do they make the boat look old, but also the seals stop working, making it unpleasant to be below deck. Everybody notices the hatch below deck. It will look old and tired, even if you have replaced all other parts of your boat.

If the hatch is damaged beyond repair, a new lens can make a big difference. In many cases, however the acrylic can be restored to its original beauty. Grab your tools and parts and get to work.

Acrylic Restore

Crazing is the biggest problem with acrylic lenses. Acrylic lenses that are not transparent can become opaque with age and look ugly. However, you can restore them to their original glory. My Sailing shows how David Bowden , a yacht owner, restored an acrylic hatch that was damaged by crazing. David repaired the acrylic windows on his catamaran’s catamaran in 2012. They are still in great condition years later. He has a better view and it saves him the time and money of replacing the hatches and windows. Although he admits that his method won’t make acrylic look new, it will help you see imperfections.

Surface crazing can be removed by removing 0.5mm of the acrylic. You may need to remove as much as 1mm if it is very severe. Reviving an acrylic hatch or window (portlight) takes about an hour.

1. Use a 150mm random orbital and 40 grit paper. You can move the sander in regular sweeps in different directions. After the craze has disappeared, switch to finer grit papers to polish.

2. Start with 60, then move on to 80, 120 and 180, and finally, finish on 350 grit paper.

3. If there is light crazing on the acrylic, check it and treat it with fine paper.

4. As a final step, use a polishing and finish pad.

5. Place the acrylic back in the mounting frame.

David suggests using a regular sun protection if you don’t have a full-sun protectant. Acrylic is most damaged by the sun’s UV rays, dirt, and chemicals. Avoid using harsh solvents like ammonia or benzene to clean it. Avoid using plastic mesh sunscreens. An alternative to plastic is a fabric cover.

Gasket Replacement

Nothing is worse than having your gear get wet by spray or water. You can make your hatch waterproof again by replacing the seal/gasket .

Make sure you order the right size gasket seal to fit your hatch. Once your order has been shipped, you can begin to remove the old seal and replace it with the new.

1. Remove the old gasket, and then use a knife or a narrow chisel to remove the adhesive.

2. To clean the gasket, use Isopropyl Alcohol on an absorbent rag.

3. Remove the backing cover from the end of the new gasket, and install the gasket around the perimeter starting at a hinge.

4. After you have finished covering the edge, carefully trim to form a butt joint.

5. Next, take a brand new tube of super glue. Use caution not to get any glue on the lens. Allow to set for five minutes.

6. To ensure that the tape sticks to the gasket, apply pressure to it.

To extend the life of your seals, weather stripping, and gaskets, use a marine silicone oil.

Replacing and Restoring a Portlight

Portlights are just like hatches. They will tell you how old your girl is. To keep your vessel in good condition, replace or maintain them.

Replacing the Portlight

It may be difficult to find a suitable replacement portlight for an old boat if you need to replace it. It is possible to be forced into installing a different-shaped or larger portlight. You can fill a portlight slightly smaller than what was left by the old one with plywood or foam covered with fibreglass. This option requires a lot of work and can leak if it is not done correctly.

A custom-made portlight may be worth the cost to fill the aperture and save you time. Make sure you measure the light accurately by removing the old one and creating a template for your manufacturer. Sailing Magazine shows how you can replace an old portlight.

Reglazing Portlights

Leakage around or through the portlights is a common problem for older boats. Leakage can cause plywood buckle and warp. You should not leave a leaking portlight unattended.

Use a marine-grade silicone sealant. A good quality silicone sealant will protect you from future oil leaks. Learn more about the types of sealants here.

1. Cut the caulking from the boat’s exterior by using a putty knife to remove the frame. You can use an electric tool to remove the caulking from the frame if it doesn’t move.

2. To remove any remaining silicone, use a small sharp instrument.

3. You can move inside the boat to pry off the frames.

4. You can remove any old sealant from the frames using a scraper. Clean the edges of the hole in your hull by removing any contaminants and rough surfaces.

5. To remove any contaminants, you can use an acetone solvent. Every solvent should be tested on a patch before use. To ensure that both surfaces are clean, use a solvent-soaked rag to clean the portlight.

6. Drill holes in the trim.

7. Spread caulking slowly around the portlight’s outside and inside edges.

8. Use a scraper or screwdriver to remove any caulking from the light.

9. Use acetone to clean up any remaining residue.

A video can be viewed of the entire process.

Call any professional for boat repairs perth to keep your boat in good condition. It will make your boat look great and keep it functional.